Laredo to Guemes Albergue

Up at 630, I prepacked the night before, hoping to get out early.  Breakfast was at 715.  Coffee, fruit, and pound cake plus wonderful company.

Ate, finished packing and headed out, leaving at 830.

We walked along beach, longest beach in Spain to the ferry that would be taking us to Santona.  Five minute ride across, they could easily have bridge....but they don't.

Walked through town to another beach, Playa de Berria. A few surfing schools along beach, we walked to beach to watch for while. Walked on beach to 'the hill ', as it is described in book, much steeper and rocky than 'hill' in my mind.  But, we made it up and over.

Playa de Noja beach, clothing optional. Paulette and I decided we'd spare them having to see such beautiful American specimens, we wouldn't have wanted any troubles.  Ha!

Near end of beach we stopped for lunch, chicken, salad, grilled bread with carmelized onion, and coke with lemon.  Very relaxing.

We decided to get a little ahead by taking a bus to Guemes Albergue.   We'd walked 10 miles by then and we were tired.

Located the bus stop with help from locals. Found the bus didn't go Guemes, so we took it to San Miguel de Meruelo. From there we took alternate route than book recommended, which was about half the distance.

We walked about 2 miles when Paulette decided to stick her thumb out and see if we could get a ride. Viola, a wonderful Spaniard picked us up and 15 - 20 minutes later, we had arrived. 

Language has been barrier for few days, but we manage to communicate and get answers and things work out.

Guemes Albergue - this place is amazing. A home that was transformed into a place for peregrinos to gather after a long day of travel. It houses up to 65 peregrinos at one time. It is owned by priest and it is his childhood home.  If you'd really like to know more, please research on Internet.  He has done wonderful things in his life and uses the money he brings in to help continue that work. A wonderful experience for me that I will remember forever.

There were about 45 staying here.  We were fed a complete dinner with wine.  We were presented the history of priest and the work they do.  There were at least 8 countries represented last night.  They keep data on numbers of peregrinos coming through. In 2014, 290 from USA stayed here, USA was 5th on list, which was surprising to me.

I went to bed last night with warmth in heart.  What an incredible day.

Day Five Done!

Liendo to Laredo

Up at 7am, out by 830 to eat and get coffee. The issue this morning,  do we walk to Laredo or take bus.  My toe was causing problems. 

Before we leave albergue, I decided to trim my toenail back.  When I did, it punctured the membrane that was retaining fluid, which was causing the swelling. It started draining immediately and what a difference that made. 

I wrapped toe in bandaid, put on one sock instead of two and decided we would walk.

Scenery was wonderful,  lots of up and down again today. By time we arrived in Laredo, my toe was killing me.

Arrived in Laredo at about 1045.  It was about 4.5 miles.  I found hospital so I could see doctor about my toe.

Language barrier is huge.  I don't understand enough Spanish to help and not many in Spain speak English. Finally determined I had to go to bank to make payment so I could be seen.  The hospital did not and would not take payment.  My insurance was not valid here.  Walked to bank,  made payment, walked back to hospital and waited another hour to be seen by doctor.

Got prescription from doctor.  He did nothing for my toe.  No bandage, bandaid, or even clean it.  Seriously, he did nothing.  Getting the prescription cost me 79€ and then I had to buy the meds.

Went into town, bought meds, and other supplies then went to find dinner and hopefully wider shoes.

Meds are amoxicillin and painkiller with anti inflammatory. Took first dose and hoped for best.

Went shopping for shoes, found nothing. Only store that would have had something was closed until October because owner was on vacation.

We went to church for the service.  Priest did blessing of pilgrims  (peregrinos).  Since I am not religious, it was interesting to watch all the ceremony and ritual that is used in the Catholic religion.  But, I got an incredible warm feeling from priest during blessing.

Went to musical service put on by nuns, attended by peregrinos. We all told our story, why were doing Camino and little about our life.

Went to bed feeling good.  Toe was getting better.

We had actually walked 8+ miles, due to shopping, eating, and back to church.

Day Four Done!

Castro to Liendo

We were up at 6am, out by 730. Incredibly beautiful trail this morning. 

My right big toe continues  to cause problems.

We stopped in Islares, at 10 am, 5.79 miles.  Got coke with ice, not something I ever do, but boy did it go down nicely.  Took off socks and shies, made adjustments and it felt much better.  Had snack of dried fruit and nuts.

~10 miles to Liendo, our stop for the night.

Break at 12:14pm, Paulette is having knee issues, it is slow.

We left at 12:30, uphill for miles.

Tightened my shoes up, helps with my toe issue. But my feet are really squeezed.

We decided, due to Paulette's knee and my toe, to take shorter route.  It will take 3 -4 miles off our day into Liendo, but we really need the shorter day today.

We arrived in Liendo,  walked all the way through town.  Found that we had another 1.3km to get to the albergue.   I really didn't think I could walk another step,  but when you have no other choice...

We arrived in at albergue,  there was no one there.   A local called and appropruate person showed up in about 5 minutes.  We arrived ar albergue Liendo at 2:40, 14.75 miles.  Omg, hard day. My toe is screaming in pain.  It is red and angry.

We found bunk, I took shower, put load clothes in washer and laid down for nap.

It was 3:40 by time I laid down for nap.  Paulette wasn't able to sleep, so she pulled clothes out of washer  and laid them out to dry.

Woke at 5, we got dressed, went for dinner.

Kitchen closed from 530 until 730.  We got wine and snacks.   Lots kids coming in to ride bikes and socialize.

Will probably go to doctor tomorrow about toe.   It looks horrible and hurts like crazy.

Met a wonderful couple from Germany.   So fun to meet such neat people.

Day Three Done.

Pobena to Castro

Morning started at 7am.  Took cold shower, hot water never worked in apartment.  We were packed and out by 830 am. 

Nothing open in Pobena for coffee or breakfast, so we hit the trail.  The morning hike was beautiful with incredible views of the beach we'd walked through yesterday.

We ate protein bars at about 10, just outside of Onton about 4 miles into the trip, but still no coffee.

Lots of up and down today, very hard on my toes.  My right big toenail is damaged and lifting from the nail base.  It didn't seem to be problem yestetday, until we got to Pobena,  it is much worse today.

Had lunch in Miono, meat sandwich and water.  From Miono, we walked through long dark tunnel then on to beach. Walked long distance on beach boardwalk.  Lots of families at the beach.  Very sunny but not hot.

Upon arriving in Castro,  we walked up to the Parish Church of Santa Maria de la Asuncion, then on to the albergue.   Line outside when we arrived.  We weren't sure we'd get a spot, luckily they had tents out back with mattresses, away from crowd and noise.

The albergue system works well if you can arrive by 3, after that there is chance no space available.   Tonight we were lucky.

Took another cold shower,  but thankful to get one.  Washed put my clothes from today,  hung them to dry and took nap.

Waiting for Paulette to finish her shower, wash clothes, and then we are going for dinner.

Day Two Done!

Bilbao to Pobena

Wow, what a day.

We got up about 8, 2 hours later than we planned, but we were both really tired.  Felt we needed the sleep.

Got breakfast at hotel, 4 € each, a bargain.   Headed out at 930.

Used guidebook to get to edge of town and on to Pobena.  At about 1230 we stopped for break.   We'd completed 5.84 miles.  Had lemonade, an orange,  and nuts for break.  Loved seeing lots of kids with families, grandparents  at the park.   Bilbao, like many European cities was mostly apartments.  Small city parks pulled families together for socializing.

Afternoon we hit our turning point to cross waterway, Las Arenas,  mechanical bridge, first in the world,  that ferried across autos and people, hung from tall iron bridge. 

Trail from Las Arenas to Pobena  wasn't  marked well, we had a few issues staying on trail.  

Had a very personal experience with dirty old Spaniard, too personal and very weird.

Today, our first day on trail seemed very long, but very beautiful.  We walked into Pobena  at about 7pm.  17.7 miles for the day.  Very tired, feet hurting and ready for rest.

The albergue system on the trail is first come, first serve.  It was full at 3pm today, according to some peregrinos we talked to on beach.   September is normally a low traffic time of year.  Pobena albergue has 22 beds, we didn't have chance, so we got apartment at $70 for both of us.  Has washer, so we are taking advantage of that.

Ate dinner next door, hamburger, fries, wine, then Sangria.   24€ for 2 of us.

Amazingly enough, we were alone on the trail all day. No other walking peregrinos (pilgrims ) at all.  We were passed on the trail by a couple on bikes, which is an option, but not my preferred method.

Our evening destination was small village of Pobena,  wonderful family community.

Tomorrow is about 9 miles, after today, that is piece of cake.

Day One Done!

I've attempted to add photos, but it won't upload them.  I'll have load photos later.  Sorry.

Seattle to Bilbao

Seattle to Philadelphia was uneventful.  I slept some, but of course not comfortably. Flight from Philadelphia to Madrid was enjoyable; nice dinner, movies, and breakfast.  Madrid to Bilbao flight was late, but very brief.

Arrived in Bilbao today about 2 pm.  We were both exhausted. Got cab to hotel and we both crashed for 3+ hours.

We headed out to see Bilbao and shop for a few things.  Went to a mall, so busy with beautiful clothes and lots of people.  Had dinner at small pub, nothing special.

Tonight we are shuffling things going for our trek that starts tomorrow.   Tomorrow  we will do about 13 miles.

Really looking forward to tomorrow.

Departure day

Our adventure began at 4am, due to 8am flight.  Madison, Paulette's daughter, came with her mom and drove us to airport. 

Amazing how many people are on highway at 5am!

I'm anxious, excited, and maybe a little scared.  This is just what I need at this point in my life.

Here we go!