Lavacolla to Seattle

Departure day has arrived.  What a great trip this has been.  With all it's frustrations, accomplishments, dry days, wet days, aching feet, and symphonic snoring nights, it has been great.

Paulette is a trooper, a motivator, and easy to travel with. 

I'm glad I came.  I'm glad we walked.  I'm glad I pushed myself beyond the pain and frustration.  It could have turned out so different, but it turned out just like it was supposed to.

This trip has really been so much like my life.  In looking back over the last 54 years, I've been through a lot in my life,  and I'm glad I pushed through to see really how incredible life can be.

Thanks for following along.  It's been a great journey.

When I get home, I will start adding photos to go along with each stage.  The blog app didn't work well for adding photos via phone.

Santiago de Compostela to Lavacolla

Today we leave for Lavacolla, city next to airport.  We decided that we'd rather be closer in the morning to airport since our flight leaves at 925am.  We need to be at airport by 725am, so that cuts about an hour off our morning.  Bus ride from here to airport is 5 minutes and we catch it at 7,  instead of 6, if we left from Santiago de Compostela.

Today, our last full day in Spain and we woke to wind and rain.  Obviously, Spain is giving us a sign that she is ready for us to go home.  I'm ready too.

We headed down for breakfast, paid our hotel bill, and, due to my foot and the rain, got a taxi to bus station.  Within 15 minutes we were on bus east to airport.  Once we arrive at airport, we get taxi to our hotel, most expensive 5 minute taxi ride ever, 10€.  Good grief!

Arrived at hotel at 1115.  Check in at Noon.  We sat around waiting, got checked into room. 

This hotel has cafe/restaurant,  so we don't even have to leave building.  About 2pm, I went down to eat.  Seafood was their specialty,  I don't eat seafood.  Salad was my option with bread and a Spanish drink; beer with lemonade.   Good enough, til dessert, ice cream cake. 

As I finished my lunch, a family came in to eat.  Grandparents, parents, and one adorable little boy.  Blonde with brown eyes and so cute.  Reminded me of Cory, who is 29 years old this month, I miss that little boy.  Also reminded me of the cutest grandson on the planet, mine, Jackson.  He will be 17 months old tomorrow, time is flying by so fast.

Family here is more extended and relied upon.  Many, many grandparents here are the care takers of their grandchildren.  The extended family that we, in the US, used to rely on, but don't much anymore. 

Fortunately for my son, Travis,  his mother in law is Jackson's care taker.   Very lucky for them they have such an incredible support sysyem.  They are blessed, as am I.

Another day done!

Santiago de Compostela - Day 3a

Well, I'm learning my way around. Sign that I've been here too long.  It is really easy to get lost here.  All the streets look the same, old town is on a hill so getting your directional bearings is a little difficult. 

I wanted to hit up a few places today that I'd found yesterday.  So to do that, meant going down same streets and remembering where you went.  I did remember and found those stores and more. I'm not a shopper just to shop, I usually only shop when I am looking for something specific. I save lots of money that way.

Cooler today than it's been this whole trip.  Jacket required and even mine wasn't quite enough.

It seems every trek through town, I find cool stuff to photograph. My "cloud" account is full and can't back up anymore stuff.   I'll have to download all my photos when I get home.

It's lunch time here and I need to eat something, but I'm tired of the food here.  We have noticed that every restaurant serves the same food, looks same, tastes the same. So when we've found a restaurant that isn't playing that game, we've really enjoyed the change.

This hotel has agreement with restaurant that will deliver and their food is good and not the usual. Therefore that's what we've had for dinner last few nights and I will have for lunch today.

Went back to old town after 2 hour break.   I noticed something the other day, this city and most others in Spain reuse and remodel. They do not tear down and build new.  Partly I'm sure because the cost,  but I also wonder if it's a mind set or culture.   The history here is thick and rich, tearing that down could be painful.

Been a good relaxing day.

Packing tonight for our departure tomorrow, saying goodbye to Santiago de Compostela.

Another day done!

Santiago de Compostela - Day 2a

Bed here is more comfortable, definitely slept better.

Walked too much yesterday and my foot and shin feeling it today.  Paulette left pretty early to find a museum. Too much walking for me.  I stayed in, took shower, and then left about 1130.

Went to a few places today that I didn't the day before.  Found a great art galllery, a few things that I would buy, but didn't.

Back at cathedral where peregrinos arrive every day, amazing how many do the Camino. Met a couple from Lynnwood, Seahawks caps tipped me off.  Somewhere in that crowd are a few people I met on our Camino.

While wondering around, met a couple from Bend, Oregon. They'd attempted Camino 2 years ago, but she fell and broke several things in the fall.  They weren't able to finish. So 2 years later, they came back and finished.

John and I discussed doing Camino together in a few years, I want to finish. It's amazing how 'incomplete', which isn't really the right word, I feel about this trip. I need to get to point I feel ok about how it went, just not there now.

Spent last part of my evening sipping down a Mojito. First experience with Mojito was in Aruba about 10 or so years ago.  Boy, got me hooked and few bars make them right.   Thus bar/cafe had it right, really good.  It was good way to end evening by cathedral.

Walked back to room, spent the next few hours doing nothing.  I tried watching TV, but it's over dubbed in Spanish and English subtitles aren't available here.

After Paulette returned we ordered pizza and salad.  Much better than going out to find food.

Another day in Santiago de Compostela done!

Finisterre to Santiago de Compostela

Today we checked out of our apartment in Finisterre to catch an 1145 bus to Santiago de Compostela.  Double decker bus and we got top front seats.  Long ride, 3.25 hours.  Lots of stops in small towns, but great scenery and quiet ride.

Our hotel is 5 min walk from bus station and about 10 min from old town.  Great location.  We are here for 3 nights, then we head out to Lavacolla for 1 night.  Lavacolla is a few minutes from airport as opposed to 30 from Santiago de Compostela.

We checked in, I decided to head out, feeling claustrophobic.  Got great directions to old town.  I wanted to pick up few things for people at home.  The souvenir shops are plenty, they all sell about same stuff, with a few exceptions.

Walked around for hours, bought some stuff and then went to find food.   The cafe, bar, restaurant thing is still confusing to me of who serves what and when.  Nothing I found looked good, walked back to room.

Paulette was still hanging out in room, found out I could order food delivered.  She had ordered hamburger, so I did same.

I called John via whatsapp and we talked short time til my food arrived.  I could only eat about half the burger, a few fries, and a few bites of dessert.  Definitely a waste of food and money.

Seemed like a long day.

Another day done.

Finisterre -Day 3

Sleeping better, fewer issues with pain at night.

Spent morning relaxing at table drinking coffee.  Had fruit for breakfast. Decided to wash a few things, so I stayed behind as Paulette headed into town to get her Internet fix. Took shower and then ate just before we headed out.

Today we went to the lighthouse. This is the starting point from Finisterre to Santiago de Compostela for peregrinos coming from coast.   It is also the "end of the world" and ending point for many peregrinos coming through Santiago de Compostela. 

It's about 3km from town up a gentle road, which has a pathway for peregrinos.  It was a pretty walk, with a church  and lots of water views.

About a third of the way there Paulette spotted something in water, dolphins. This area is known for the dolphin pods.  We watched them for 15 min or so.  They were slowly and gracefully swimming the coastline. We were up on the road, too far away for a photo.  We saw them again on our way home.

Then we went back to apartment, ate, and rested. Then I headed for beach and Paulette to town (Internet).  I sat at the beach watching 4 young girls dive into the surf and climb out again, over and over.  They were having such fun, each was probably about 10 or 11.  Very confident and comfortable in the water and crashing surf.

Met up with Paulette and wondered around town.  Decided to get drink and snack.  Paulette got cognac and pink scallops. I got their version of Mojito, which was simply Mojito rum, then Santiago cake with vanilla ice cream.   Everything substantial on the menu was fish or extremely expensive. Number 1, I don't eat fish, Number 2, I don't spend 38€ on rice with veggies.

It was sufficient. We headed back and went to bed. 

Tomorrowland we head back to Santiago de Compostela for 3 nights.

Another day done.

Finisterre -Day 2

Our pre-arrival planning paid off well.  Our apartment is central to town and the owner also owns the grocery store around the corner.  At 30€ a night, it's a bargain. 

Paulette washed her clothes and hung them out. I went for walk to parts of town we hadn't seen, got some mediocre breakfast and then checked emails.

The one thing missing from our apartment is WiFi.  Most of the places we've stayed had it, this one doesn't, at least not officially.  We've been picking up a signal from someone's router, but it's pretty weak and inconsistent.

Headed north of town to see what I could find.  Passed a few peregrinos coming into town as I was walking their route into Finisterre.  Found the 'edge' of town, the location of the cross peregrinos lay their worries and prayers. Very beautiful location above a beach.

Headed back to town to apartment. With only one key, I had to leave it with Paulette   so she could lock up if she left.  I'd been gone about 2 hours, I hoped she'd still be there.  Got her attention by whistling from the street. I went to buy coffee, since we have our own coffee maker.

Paulette decided to do some cooking, save us money and have stuff we like.  She made lentils with bacon, veggies, etc.  I'm glad she can cook. We also had spaghetti and salad.

Went back to town later just to get out.  I still don't do much walking.  My right shin is more painful now than my left heel.  Good Grief!

Another day gone.

Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre

Our day today has been awesome.  Got up, packed, down for breakfast.   Thanked our wonderful hosts for their generosity and headed into town.

We then walked into town to catch bus to Finisterre. Bus leaving at 1pm, so we wandered around old town. Taking it all in.  I really wish you could all experience the feeling of a town that was established in the 4th century AD.  It is beyond words to describe it.

Arrived at bus station along with about 50 other peregrinos to get bus to Finisterre.  About an hour and half later we arrived at this wonderful fishing village.

Finisterre at one point in history was believed to be the end if the world.  The most western part of Europe,  which of course it isn't,  but anyway, they thought so at one point.

We are here for 3 nights. We found this great apartment for 30€ a night. It sleeps 5 people, has washer (most homes in Spain don't have dryer, hung dry), full kitchen,  2 bedrooms.  Amazing deal.

Didn't do much on first day here.  Took short nap, bought laundry detergent and did all my clothes.  Hung them out the window on the nifty clothes line attached to building.

Headed back to town to eat dinner, have glass wine.  Very neat little village surrounds small bay, fishermen live here.

It is a busy place several times a day a bus load of people, mostly peregrinos, arrive from Santiago de Compostela. It is the last place many go before returning home.

Not sure when this village was established, but some of the structures look several hundreds of years old.  They got really good with stone work.  The streets here are paved with granite squares about 4" × 4", every street and alley. We were wondering how long ago they did the pavers, very labor intensive work.

It was a good day.

Santiago de Compostela -Day 3

Woke with nausea, thought maybe because I didn't eat yesterday except breakfast.  Even after eating, it didn't pass.  Took shower and attempted to meet up with Paulette, didn't happen.

Walked into old town to the cathedral, wow, so big and impressive. Saw a few people I recognized from along "The Way". 

Not completing the Camino really hit me when I got to the cathedral and saw all the pilgrims arriving with that look on their face, completion. I instantly felt deprived.  I wanted to finish so much.  It wasn't meant to be, this time. There will be another chance.

Was a full day for me, I've spent a lot of time resting and not on my feet lately.  I probably walked over 6 miles today, my left shin bothered me more than the bottom of my foot.  Will have to get it looked at when I get home.

When we returned from town our key to room wouldn't open the door.  We tried for a good 15 minutes and got nowhere.   Decided to go downstairs see if owners were around. No one in building but us.  So I started calling all the numbers on the cards we had, no answer.  I called the booking.com people who we booked through and they got no answer either.

I went outside hoping to get help.  This little old lady was walking by, I explained our circumstances, and she responded in Spanish about 100 words a second. I explained I didn't speak Spanish, and did some actions to indicate that we were locked out and our key wasn't working. She kept talking and pointing.  Finally, I went back upstairs.

10 minutes later, banging on the door downstairs.  It was the lady with 'comida' (food), so we wouldn't starve.  I hugged her and thanked her profusely and went back upstairs.

We continued to try to get someone to answer phone.  The booking.com bunch sent an email explaining we were locked out, etc.  But no response.

Finally, I forced the key (pushed it really hard into the key hole - this is old skeleton key), and I got it unlocked.  I had been envisioning sleeping in the hall. About that tine, banging on the door again.  I ran downstairs  (3 flights of winding, circular,  dizziness), and it was the old lady again, but with grapes and peaches.   I am so blindsided by the generosity of these people, seriously. ..I just don't see this in US, take note. We have something to learn from others.  What an evening!

Tomorrow we leave for Finisterre, be there for 3 days, then we are back to Santiago de Compostela for 3 days, then we are staying our last night out by airport.

Santiago de Compostela -Day 2

Restless night sleep but no intense pain, just dull ache most of night.

Breakfast was served at 10 am, coffee, fresh squeezed orange juice (really), toast, breads, muffins, and jams.  Very nice and filling.

At some point this morning, we are being driven back to town to the hostel.  Don't know time yet.

I washed everything by hand last night.  Most is still damp and will dry in hostel today.  I've packed almost all my stuff with exception of socks, they are laying in window sill in sun, drying.

This house appears to have been built several hundred years ago.  Traditional construction of brick core with stone on outside and inside. Therefore the walls are about a foot thick.  It was renovated between 2000 and 2002 to become a bed and breakfast.   There are about 8 rooms, each rent for about 75€ a night.  It sits on about 1/2 acre lot in small village just outside of La Estrada which is about 40km from Santiago de Compostela.

At 1120am, we headed out for town.  Such a wonderful place we got to stay at.  What a trip.

On our trip back, the father (owner of hostel and villa) gave us tour of La Estrada, described everything in Spanish. He speaks no English.   His son, who gave us ride out yesterday, has college degree and speaks very good English.

We arrived back at hostel.  We have room, shared, but plenty big with 2 beds and our own bathroom.   We are planning on staying here until Monday morning. At that point we are taking a bus to Finisterre and staying for a few days.

Since I'm working on relaxing, I stayed in room and Paulette went out to whatever.   I stayed until 520, then decided to go to running store to check on new shoes or inserts per doctors instructions.   They were closed.   Went to farmacia and they had inserts. Bought some with hole in heel specifically for bone spurs.   Wore them back,  not impressed, but will wear them again later.

Another day done, but ready to be home, I've had my fill.

Santiago de Compostela

Last night was amazing and miserable.

Paulette did her running around with her phone. She left her phone there, they will attempt to upgrade it and get it running again. 

When she returned, we went to find something to eat.  Three blocks from our hostel is a huge 4 story mega store, they sell everything you can imagine.  Restaurant on top floor, that's where we ate.

Then went back to hostel to bed.  Another horrible night, excruciating pain. About 4 hours sleep.

Made decision at 230am, I can not stay here another nine nights.  I need to go home.  Sent message to John and I started looking into things at 8 am.

When I told Paulette what I was planning, she was in shock, just a little. I started making calls.  Got vague answers and many more questions.

We went down for breakfast at bar which is run by hostel owner.  We developed a temporary plan. The owner didn't have room for us tonight, but does next night.  He also owns a home that has been converyed into a bed and breakfast. He offered us one of those rooms at the 20€ / person rate tonight and then move us back for tomorrow night.  Sympathy for my injuries.   Score!

Then we headed out to find a clinic. Went down to busy street and went to a running store.  Big score!   Employee connected us with a podiatrist, appointment in hour. We walked there, very slowly.   I have a bone spur issue in my heel.  Not nerve damage, not tendons or ligaments, just very painful bone spurs.  But I have to stop walking, which I already did.

The doctor spoke about as much English as I do Spanish so we used a laptop to translate back and forth, and it worked great. When his assistant (who spoke English) returned from lunch, we confirmed everything.

He would not prescribe pain meds, only the inflammatory meds I'm already taking.  I need to buy inserts or shoes with more cushion.  Then orthotics when I get home. 

He refused to take any money.  The generosity of so many people, warms my soul.

Made decision to stay in Spain and do some sightseeing, with minimal walking.

Paulette went to phone store while I had appointment, I'm waited at cafe for her.  We met up, ate and went back to hostel.  We then got ride to our new digs for the night.

The owner of the hostel renovated his father's home into a bed and breakfast 50km out if Santiago de Compostela.  We arrived to private room, wine, and breakfast in morning, all for 20€ each.  This family has a heart of gold.

I've washed everything I have, except pants. I am hoping most will dry by tomorrow, but if not, I'll hang in room tomorrow.

Breakfast is at 10 and then we go back to city.

It's been another amazing day.

Betanzos to Santiago de Compostela

Today was a rough one for me.  My pain meds didn't work night before, so sleep was minimal.  Our walk today was only going to be 7 miles, piece of cake, except that I've developed a strained muscle in my right shin and my left foot was really hurting today.

We walked mostly in silence and separate,  Paulette walks faster.  It was very foggy and kinda chilly.  But we plugged along, step after step.  Lots of wonderful homes with amazing rock work, just so impressed.

We arrived at Presedo at about 1130, my foot was in bad shape and my shin, not much better.  We had someone call the albergue representative and we were let in.  I was exhausted. I decided to take shower while we waited.  After shower, I made the decision that I was kidding myself if I thought I'd be able to walk 4 more days, some of those being 10 mile days.  My foot was just not going to be able to carry me.

We discussed with albergue person, she called taxi to take us to Bruma so we could take bus to Santiago de Compostela.  This was not the way I wanted to arrive in Santiago de Compostela, but it had to be.  Don't you just love all this drama!

We arrived, found a place for one night, got cab, and here we are.  Paulette went to see if her phone could get fixed. I'm debating going to see a sports medicine clinic tomorrow.

We have discussed staying here a few days, then taking bus to Finisterre and staying there a few days.  But nothing is set.

But, I am disappointed and frustrated, didn't imagine I would have the foot issue that I do or that it would stop me the way it has. 

Another lesson here.

8 miles

Twenty-one Done!

Mino to Betanzos

Taking 1/2 pain pill did not work.  Will have to see if I can get a refill on pain meds today.

We left albergue about 8, had coffee and pastry, hit trail about 830.  Very cloudy and foggy today, some drizzle, but not much.

We were joined on our walk this morning by the young man from England.  He stayed with us for about half hour, realizing he'd never cover 20 miles at the pace we walk. We said our goodbyes and he was gone.

Small villages and farms dotted our path today.  Roads and trails with drizzle and fog.

Our destination today was only 6 miles away.  I'm continuing to pamper my feet, want to be able to walk rest of way.  Some pain today, but not significant. My right shin developed a new pain, strained muscle I assume.  Will do some stretching when we get to albergue.

It was a peaceful walk today, quiet and calming. Paulette walked ahead at a quicker pace, I'm not in hurry and I stop to take photos frequently.

We arrived in Betanzos at 1130, albergue opens at 1pm. We found place for lunch right around the corner.  I am sitting in Plaza de Constitucion,  across from the Church of Santiago built in 15th century. I think about all the people, events, history that has taken place right here and it is mind boggling.

The stone work in this country is amazing. Many old homes and barns built completely with stone and are still used and maintained. Fences and walls built so many hundreds of years ago and still standing and serving their purpose. Beautiful craftsmanship. 

Starting to see a few vinyards, many small ones and then a few homes just grow for personal use. A few places created a carport out if grapes.

We haven't done laundry in few days, we are hoping albergue will have that available.  I'm starting to smell.

Went around corner to albergue, line of men, 60+ each of them. Loud, boisterous, and talkative, yet none speak English.   When we showed up at 1130, no one was at door, now there were 10 waiting in front of us.  There would be plenty of room,  albergue has 32 beds, but I don't really want to be climbing up and down, kinda scary at my age.

About 8 miles.

Day Twenty Done!

Pontedeume to Mino

Relatively good night sleep, albergue was almost filled to capacity and most people were quiet and respectful.   Attempted to take 1/2 of pain med hoping I could spread out what I have til the end.  No such luck, woke up in pain, climbed down to get other half. 

Got nice cup coffee, which in this part of Spain in espresso, a piece of toast with jam and we left, about 830. We had rain to deal with today.

Goal was to get to Mino, about 6 miles.  It drizzled and rained the whole way.  Pleasant day with trails mostly, and a few roads.

My foot seems to be doing better.   I have not removed the tape job that was applied in La Caridad.  It seems to help and I  don't know how it would do untaped. Most of my toenail is gone.  I've been cutting it off as it separates from my toe.  Only tiny little piece remains.

We arrived in Mino about 1130, 7.5 miles.  Wondered around looking for albergue, asked a few people, then decided to get coffee. I was wet and cold.

Got directions from bar owner to albergue and headed out.  An hour later and after asking 3 more people, we arrived at albergue.   No one was in building,  we let ourselves in, found a bed.  I took shower, which is always an entertaining experience in these places.

This one the water doesn't turn on, you press and hold button in for hot water and simply press the button in for cold water.  The cold water eventually turns off, then you get blasted with hot water since you've been leaning on button while washing hair and body.  I completely understand why they set up showers this way, but a little frustrating when you want a nice warm shower.

Decided to take nap, amazing how tired we get just walking.

It's now 3 and we need to head back to town to eat before they stop cooking.

Walked to town, found great place to eat.  Hamburger for 3.5€, beer for 1.6€.  They have this great drink here, beer with lemonade, really good.  My dinner, including 2 beers, 6.7€.

While we were at bar, John loaded 'whatsapp' and we texted for a few minutes.  It apparently will also allow you to call as well.  Pretty damn cool app.

The bar staff called the albergue representative, he picked us up and brought us back for signing documents.  6€ each per night, only one other person here.  He is from Italy, traveling alone. 

Amazing number of people do the Camino alone.  It is usually safe, with few exceptions  (latest was an American,  Denise), I would have done trip alone, but don't think John would have 'let' me, he would have come if Paulette could not.

We are looking at walking from Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre. It will take about 5 days, then we take bus back to Santiago de Compostela.   Possible!

We gained 4 more peregrinos this evening.  A young man from England, he walked from Ferrol today ~ 27 miles.  He'd never walked that far ever, he's a biker.  He was exhausted.  3 others from Spain, don't know their story, they don't speak English.

It was a really good day.

Tomorrow we go to Betanzos ~ 6.2 miles.

Day Nineteen Done!

Ferrol to Pontedeume

Woke late, 845.  Obviously body is recuperating.  Took shower, took meds, packed and headed out. 

Paulette does not want to leave without getting her phone fixed, or at least attempted to be fixed.  Stores open at 10.  We had coffee and ate. 

Got a new power adapter and then to phone stores.  One of them wouldn't even attempt to fix, they only work on client phones.  The other store was willing to give it shot.  Employee was going to call boyfriend and see if he could fix it.  We have to wait an hour.

I found park bench and parked my pack and my butt.  Want to use what walking capabilities my foot has on Camino, not killing time.

We are planning on doing 9 miles today.   It's been several days since I've walked that far.  Keeping fingers crossed.

Yesterday I was fidgety, wanted to do something but rest at same time. It was long day.  Paulette's phone was distraction, but not enough to keep me occupied.

My foot is still taped up.  I'm planning on leaving tape on as long as possible.  I did a little more research on my foot issue, I think I actually have Tarsal Tunnel Syndrome.  The symptoms more closely match. I'll continue to take anti-inflammatory and pain meds, because they help. 

It's now 11, boyfriend has to take phone home to work on, it will be another hour.  Not happy about late departure, puts the ability to get into albergue at risk.  Those usually fill up by 3 and it will be 5 or later at thus point.

Phone got updated but is locked for 8 hours, even then Paulette will probably have to connect to computer to get it working.

We left phone store at 1240ish, walked to information center to check on our route.  Left there to hit the trail.

We have stopped for lunch, it's 240. We haven't gotten far, but my feet hurt and I'm hungry.

It was a good day, very pretty, not hot.  We arrived in Pontedeume at about 6, 10.5 miles.  I haven't looked at last  time I walked that far, but success. 

Arrived at albergue, all bottom bunks taken, Paulette and I will be climbing up into bed.  But for 5 €, I'll take it.

Time for shower and wine. We gathered stuff for showers when I discovered my towel was missing.  I either had it stolen in La Caridad or I left it behind.  I'll be sharing towel with Paulette til I find another one.

Found perfect spot for wine, kicked my sandals off and put my feet up.  We watched the rain rolling over hills.  We were dry today, rain coming late in day.

Day Eighteen Done!

Day in Ferrol

Got a wonderful night sleep.  Late night for us and even later for the people of Ferrol, they partied in street until really early in the morning.  Thank goodness for ear plugs.

Got up at 8. Went downstairs used my translator to communicate about laundry and staying another night.  We decided another day of relaxing would help us both.

Gathered our laundry for lady from hostel.  Went down for breakfast. 

Spent some time yesterday looking at route to Santiago de Compostela.   Broke it down in chunks that work.  We plan on taking a week to get there.  Manageable days with lots of slack. We will arrive in Santiago de Compostela on the 28th.

We plan on taking bus to Finisterre on about the 29th.  Nothing planned or scheduled after that except that we return to Santiago de Compostela to fly out on 5th.

We haven't made plans for today yet, just relaxing, resting, and planning.  Hard to believe I've been gone 19 days as of today.  What a trip!

Paulette is having phone issues, we spent quote a bit of time trying to figure it out, it's now sitting in room plugged in.  We are hoping it will update accordingly.

Paulette went out to explore.  I'm still battling a cold and wanted to let my foot rest more.  I've gone out to something to eat, it's after 5 and I haven't eaten since breakfast. It's Sunday in Spain and almost everything is closed, having hard time finding food.

Found snack, reconnected with Paulette, spent more time trying to fix her phone.  Waste of time, one of several reasons I don't buy apple products.

Took meds, went to bed.

Day Seventeen Done!

La Caridad to Ferrol

We've decided to take train Ferrol, walk the Camino Ingles, which is 116km. A continually changing schedule, challenging for me.

Meds help me sleep, but I'm hacking like a smoker.  Albergue was stuffed with 30+ people last night. I went to bed at 8, ear plugs in ready for night.  The symphony of snoring was faint, but constant.

Headed out about 830. First coffee stop, no WiFi.  Walked to location we could get WiFi,  but unable to get train schedule online, we walked to train station.   Train leaves at 1050, 4 hour trip to Ferrol.

Went back to town, got breakfast, and more coffee.  Paulette got opportunity to go in kitchen and get lesson on meat balls.  She was a happy camper.

Walked back to train station to wait for train.  Met wonderful local man, has great love for jazz and blues music.  He spoke little English but enough to communicate his love for music.

Train arrived, we find seats and don't move for 4 hours.  Longest that we've been still, with exception to sleeping, on this trip.

Had nice relaxing train ride. Arrived, got taxi to the hostel, which is closed until 5 and it's 3.  We find bar with WiFi, get drinks and sit til 5.

So, we sat til 5, doing nothing. Had to call number, because she never showed up.  She didn't have room,  we went to another hostel.  Better location, nicer people. 

Now we are heading to Decathlon store, see if I can get charging cable for my fitbit, which I accidentally shipped home.  Keeping fingers and toes crossed.

No luck at Decathlon store, but Paulette bought a Fitbit.  Hoping to get it up and running soon.  Mine is dead in water until I get home.

The shopping adventure took several hours, taking bus around just adds time to your trip.  We went out for dinner and returned to room.  It was late for us, after 10 and we were both pretty tired.

Took showers, meds, and went to bed.

Tomorrow we may be sticking around another day, do some site seeing and resting.   Then we hit the trail to Santiago de Compostela.

Day Sixteen Done!

Cadavedo to La Caridad

Horrible night sleep, my left foot kept me awake until about 1, then some intestinal  issues cropped up.  I slept about four hours.

Went for breakfast and then to farmacia to get meds for intestinal issues.  Walked to train station.  At train station, we made decision to go on La Caridad.  Total 46.5 km covered.  This will give me a day of rest to get intestinal issues under control and maybe get help for my foot issue.  So glad I'm having a good trip.  😆

Scheduled train time was not what we were told, good thing we arrived very early.  Nice train, 4€ each.  Train departed about 940, not sure when it will arrive. But I hope we will be to our destination soon.

Arrived in La Caridad, wondered around to find albergue. Stopped in a few stores, bought a ball as Jean suggested.  Asked several people and found the albergue.

Very nice place, with 20 bunks or so, very new facility.   I went outside and gave my toe some medical attention. Cut off chunks of the nail.  It was pretty red and irritated.   Paulette went into town and I tried to nap.  No such luck. 

Got dressed, put shoes on, went into town to see doctor about my heel.  Diagnosis,  plantas facia  (check spelling).  70€ for visit,  fortunately one of the girls spoke enough English to translate.  Common problem on Camino, she did fancy tape job (which I will have great deal difficulty duplicating).  Got new med prescriptions and off I go.

Since Spain shuts down stores between 130 and 400, I would have to wait to get my meds as it was 300.

I walked back to albergue thinking Paulette would be back, she wasn't. I changed shoes, left her note and walked back to town.

Normally, it is recommended that I would rest, little or no walking with my diagnosis, but that probably isn't going to happen.  We will come up with plan to get to Santiago de Compostela, walking, train, or bus.

I'm frustrated, understandably, with my body issues. I really wanted to walk the 420 miles, but we've already taken bus and train total of 175+ miles.  It just wasn't meant to be.

Went into town, met up with Paulette,  got wonderful salad and wine and then ice cream.  So relaxing.

Picked up my meds and Paulette went to store and got snacks for next few days.  We walked around a little until my foot couldn't take it anymore.

Finally got John to answer phone, told him my issues, he told me go with it.  Enjoy the time, go with flow.  It is always so good to talk with him.

My cold, which I picked up a few days ago, is getting worse. I cough like I smoke cigarettes.  I think my lack of sleep isn't helping my cold, my stomach, or my attitude.

We will be discussing our further plans tomorrow.  We have 14 days left, and I won't be able to walk it all.  Possibly walk the last 100km so I can complete the Camino,  but do I need to do that, have I already walked enough.

Day Fifteen Done!

Santa Marina to Cadavedo

After drinks last evening, I used my wonderful translator to get bill for food, lodging, drinks, and laundry.   The sweet woman refused to charge me for washing our clothes.   She proceeded to take me out back to show me where she'd hung them out to dry.  All clean, smelling fresh and ready to pack or wear. 

I'd gotten a good feeling from her when we checked in.  Good heart, good soul, all the way to the core.  She works hard all day to provide for her family.  Lives upstairs from the bar. Her husband works along side her and her grand daughter was running around entertaining customers.  I suspect her son or daughter lives there as well, but didn't see them.  Not a bad bone or cell in her body, just goodness to the core.

Woke this morning after a rough night, feet ached, didn't sleep well.  Up at 7 out by 830 for breakfast across street.  Coffee and muffins, just enough.  Hit the trail about 915. 

Mostly trails today,  not much road, but lots of hills.  It had rained during night and day before, so it was very muddy in spots.  A few creeks to cross, then beautiful views of ocean.  We hadn't really seen ocean in while, but there it was in all its glory.  So powerful and peaceful.

We walked and walked, a few peregrinos passed us, cause we are slow and not in a hurry.  We had plan for today, Cadavedo, about 7 miles away.  Very doable with my issues of my feet.

My feet today seemed better. I hated to be too optimistic,  but the normal pains weren't there.  A mile 4 or 5, I would normally start to get a few achy twinges, but it didn't happen today.

We did take breaks today,  just walked usually with a distance between us because Paulette has gotten faster and I have gotten slower.  Gave us space and solitude.

Went through a small village or two and then arrived in Cadavedo.  Book tells us to walk through town, pass a round about, pass this corner and that, up to the highway and it will be on other end of town.  Well, our experience with this book thus far, is that it lacks details and valid information.   So we usually ask villagers, which sometimes helps and sometimes doesn't.  

We have found that only a small percentage in Spain in the outlying areas speak English.  My Spanish is horrid, only a few words and Paulette's is nonexistent.   After asking several villagers as we walked, we found the albergue.

We'd walked 7.44 miles, arrived at 1250. Not great time, but we aren't trying to beat anyone.

Albergue was empty, with note to sign in and find a bed.  We were first ones there.  Got a bed and headed out door to find lunch.  As we were leaving, two 60+ yr old gentlemen were walking up path to albergue.  We are finding lots of older peregrinos as opposed to younger ones.

Big meals at lunch time here, so we go with flow and sometimes don't eat dinner.  Food was mediocre today, and too much of it.  The amazing thing, food is cheap here.  2 dishes (soup and meat with potatoes), wine (1/2 bottle), and water...all that cost 8€.  Wine by glass is 1.5€.  A full bottle wine is 5€.  Crazy cheap and some is really good,  some mediocre.

After our meal we walked back to albergue to take nap. Not getting good sleep and walking 7 miles is tiring.

This albergue needs some attention,  but since it is run by volunteers and operates without city funding, it is expected.  The donation is at least 5€ for place like this.  Just wish city knew value in peregrinos.

Met some interesting people today staying at the albergue.

Walked back into town, walked around then back to bar for beer and food.

We're taking train tomorrow to Lucarco.

Day Fourteen Done!

Mileage update and info

The data geek in me is keeping track.  We've been 'walking' for 13 days now.  We did 2 days that we actually didn't walk, we took bus. We've hitched short rides, about 2 to 3 miles each, 2 times.

We've walked, based on guidebook not my fitbit,  104.64 miles out of the 257.44 miles that we've covered. 

We have to be in Santiago de Compostela on October 4th.  To receive the certificate, we have to walk the last 100km.  I am planning on giving us 12 days to finish that.  Lots of planning involved and it means we'll be taking bus again later to keep to that schedule.

The issues with my feet have driven this walk more than I would have liked.  I didn't imagine I would be having these kinds of problems.  I have consistently pushed myself even when it hurt terribly, a lesson in that somewhere.  I've had hurdles along the way and one very enlightening phone call with John when we arrived in Comillas that pushed me past my upset. (Thank you so much John  for all your support)  Having a plan and really wanting things to work out that way, can get in the way of life. 

It's great when things work out like you planned, but it can be even greater when they don't. 

Ain't life great!

Soto de Luina to Santa Marina

Our accommodation last night was adequate,  a few guys too loud when they came in at 11pm, but we survived.

Morning was slow, walked into town found place for coffee primarily because I needed to pee. Off we went.  Destination ~7 miles down the trail.  I woke with sore heels and I decided 6 or 7 miles was all I would do today.

Today was muddy and slippery and very windy.  More trails today vs highway/roads. That is my preference, gets us off the beaten path.

Pretty areas with lots of green trees, several eucalyptus groves and bamboo groves. 

Took break at 1130, took off shoes and socks and stretched.  Saw a few peregrinos walk by and one who stopped to visit. He was Italian, taking 3 weeks to do part of the Camino.  

Doing parts of the Camino is common in Europe, since it is so easy to get around many peregrinos do a week or two a year until they've done the length.  Many do Camino more than once.  One woman, 79 years old, had lost count how many times she'd walked the camino.  Doing it in chunks at a time is easier,  I wonder, at times, if I've bitten off too much.

We were within a few miles of our destination at this point, my feet were ready to be there.  After our break, my left heel suddenly felt like needles were being pushed up through the middle.  Incredible pain that came suddenly and within 25 minutes, left suddenly too.  I am very confused by this heel/foot issue.

As we walked our last two miles, we came across several bee hives. Very neatly stacked with rock on top each one to hold lid on.  Out of nowhere, I heard a bee buzzing in my hair.   The wind had blown him there and he was terrified, so was I.

Having had a few unpleasant encounters with yellow jackets on my head, I envisioned a sting I wouldn't soon forget.   The bee was panicking and just wanted out of this mess of gray hair he'd been blown into.   He stung quickly in his panic as I called for Paulette to help get him out of my hair.  He was extinguished as soon as Paulette could get him out.  Thank god that was over.

I began to wonder, what is next, seriously; my toe nail was falling off, my feet ached, and now I've been stung on the top of my head by a bee. I know, could be much worse,  but when you are in the throws of panic, nothing seemed like it could be worse.

I survived the bee attack, my head doesn't even hurt, lesson learned...don't jump to conclusions.

We arrived in Santa Marina at about 130, found our lodging, decided to shower and eat.  We'd completed 7.44 miles, we were tired.  Yes, that is short day and not what I had wanted to be able to do, but my feet are dictating the days.

A wonderful woman greeted us at the bar and took us across the street to our accomodations.  She ran the bar/restaurant and the "pensions" as they are called here.  We have a private room, with private bathroom and a meal for 23€.  Bargain.

We went back across street to eat our fine meal with wine.  Used my translator on my phone to check on washer and dryer situation.   She indicated she had washer and she would take care of it.  After two muddy days of walking, we needed to get things washed.  

After meal, went back to room, got our clothes for washing.  I made trek back across street and dropped off clothes. Trekked back to room, time for nap.

Two hour nap, much needed, felt good.  It's 530 now, bar closed and reopens at 8,  which is typical schedule in Spain.  I'm blogging, Paulette is sleeping.

Paulette's knee issue has improved greatly.  She found a brace mechanism that seems to have solved the issue.   I asked Enumclaw Yoga expert,Jean Holland, advice through Facebook, on my heel/foot issue. She suggested rolling foot over tennis ball, will have to find tennis ball (or a different type ball) and try it.  Nights are the worst problem with my heel, excruciating pain.

It's been a good day.

Day Thirteen Done!

Muros De Nalon to Soto de Luina

Morning started slow, breakfast was nice.  We got out about 930, later than I would have liked, but it was raining. Actually dumping would be better description.  We pulled on our rain gear, covered our packs and hit the trail.

Up the hill to town, skirting edge of town we followed the shells and arrows leading our way.  After town,  turned into gravel road, which turned into mud road,  then mud trail. Some spots were more like a creek, we got pretty wet.

My feet seemed to be doing OK, hoping that trend would continue.  We walked and walked for what seemed forever. Today was more trails than the usual pavement, it was nice change.

Took break about 1130, decided after taking off my shoes and socks, we'd keep going.  That was about 5 miles into the day.  We'd planned on going all way to Soto de Luina,  which was about 11 miles.
During my break, discovered my rain jacket,  wasn't water proof, it was seeping through. I was wet all way through and getting cold,  so we had to keep moving.

Hit trail again, more rain off and on.  One step at time. We took another break at mile 9ish, my feet were starting to complain.  Not as bad as day before, but they were unhappy.  I knew we were close,  just couldn't tell from book how close  (book lacks lots of helpful information ). 

Paulette offered to see if we could thumb a ride, we'd been successful both other times, but I was determined to walk all the way today. 45 minutes later after a long descent, we'd arrived. And a hostel was the first place in town.

We'd walked 11 miles, that was good enough for me.

We decided not to bother looking for albergue, it only had 16 spots and we figured it was full.  There were 12 people directly in front of us on trail and we knew there were others.

Bargain rate of 25€ for room at hostel and we didn't have to worry about symphony of snoring men. We shuffled our stuff to room and then ran back for late lunch. Kitchen was closing in half hour.

We ate, drank, and relaxed.  Time to soak my feet, shower and nap.  Being already wet and cold the hot water on my feet felt fabulous.  Hot shower topped off my afternoon.

After a 2 hour nap, we needed to go to store for few things. Walked into town, 3 blocks, went to store. Just as we were about to leave, it started to dump again.  We weren't prepared for rain.  It slowed down enough we could walk and not get soaked.

WIFI doesn't work in our room, have to go next door to get signal.

Time to plan tomorrow's walk. Will probably cut back on miles, I need to look at rest of trip to ensure we get enough miles walked each day to finish on October 4th in Santiago de Compostela.

Day Twelve  Done!

Aviles to Muros De Nalon

Got ok sleep, I wear ear plugs every night.  Too much risk of snoring keeping me awake.  It was like a symphony last night, but since I was in corner and had ear plugs it was only a soft rumble all night. More than half the 50 people in the dorm room were men.

I woke at 6am, got up at 630. Lots of people already packed and moving on. 

We were on the road by 720, earliest yet. We had planned to go to Salinas, but when we got there (it was only 4 miles ), I wanted to go further.  So we kept walking and walking. We stopped and got coffee and snack and hit the road.

We were just outside Ramon when we saw sign for albergue,  3km up the road.  The other option was 12km to Soto del Barco.   We opted to head into Ramon.  We walked and walked until we saw police,  asked them about albergue, said there wasn't one until Muros De Nalon.  Said we could get taxi in next town. 

We started walking. My feet were starting to hurt, new shoes were not the solution, even though they were better they were hurting like they had several days ago.  This was very discouraging,  de motivating,  and upsetting.

Paulette stuck out her thumb again hoping the guy coming down hill would give us ride.  Language barrier again, he spoke no English. After hand signs and broken Spanish,  we came to understanding and he opened the back of his vehicle.  

He loaded our bags, moved things around for us to fit and we hit the road.  He was a great tour guide.  Described everything in detail as we went, in Spanish of course, but we figured out most of it.  We saw a castle,  the river,  the towns,  etc. 

When he pulled up to albergue,  he got our bags out,  kissed my shell  (Camino thing, look it up), and refused to take money.

We got a hug, a European kiss (1 on each cheek),  and a Buen Camino.  Such a wonderful guy.  We were so thankful,  my feet especially.

Albergue is new, very nice, with property out back to enjoy.  I took my shower,  which was cold until I figured out that I had to hold button in with my shoulder so it would get hot.  Washed my clothes by hand, hung them to dry.

It was tough the last 2 miles today, I've got to keep miles down, my feet just can't take it.

We did 11.97 miles today, much further than I'd planned and further than I should have.

Tomorrow's another day.

Day Eleven Done!

Gijon to Aviles

Got up 630, I was only one awake.  Went downstairs,  thought we got breakfast at hostel, but apparently not. The morning help spoke no English and made no effort to help me understand the food issue.  Almost every person I've met in Spain has been so helpful regarding our language gap, he was an exception.

We decided to leave town via bus. Took bus to bus terminal,  Paulette headed to bar to get coffee and breakfast.  Bought 2 tickets to Tramdos, had 15 minutes before departure. 

Got Paulette from across street, headed for bus.

10 minutes later, we had hit the road.   Bus employee had sold me ticket to a town too far from Aviles, since I am limiting my daily miles now. After several minutes of communication,  we found we could just buy ticket rest of the way.  On to Aviles we go.

We arrived and wondered through streets, getting directions along the way to the albergue.   Found albergue, opens at 1pm.  We headed to park to watch kids and families feeding ducks, geese, and pigeons. 

One o'clock rolls around and we arrive at albergue.  This place is big, 25 bunk beds in one room.  I'm really glad I have ear plugs.  Snoring is problem at albergues, unfortunately, I can't just wack the guy on chest and tell him to roll over like I've done to John in past, but believe me, I'd like to.

This albergue is run by man from Boston,  who lives in Gijon with his wife.  It is due for upgrades and closes tomorrow for remodeling,  glad we came through today.

We found our bunks, laid out our bags.  Decided to nap, then go for meal.

Spain has different meal and daily schedule than US.  Most businesses close from 1 pm to 4 pm for lunch.  Evening meal is at 830 or later.  I'm still adjusting to that.

We got beer with lemonade, which is really good, and some tapas.  Ate too much, went down street to find WiFi, which is pronounced with short "i" vowel unlike our pronunciation with a long "i" vowel.  Anyway, found our WiFi,  posted photos and few days of blogs.

It's been a good relaxing day.   Tomorrow we hike about 4 or 5 miles, then 7 or 8 day after.  Breaking in new shoes.

Did 3.58 miles of just walking around.

Day Ten Done!

Santillana to Comillas

Walking was extremely painful. My heels and bottoms of feet just don't stop hurting. Walked about 10 Miles and couldn't walk anymore.  Stopped at bus stop and waited.

Got bus into Comillas, took about an hour to find albergue.  Got there and many of our peregrino friends were there.  I was hurting so much and so disappointed.  Got a bed and settled in.

Called John.  My inability to continue walking really upset me.  I was not handling it well.  We decided to get my shoes shipped to Comillas.   So we made plans to stick around a few days. This was not the way I wanted to trip to go, but sometimes you just gotta deal with what comes along.

Decided I needed to make the best of the situation.

13.12 miles

Day 8 Done!

Comillas to Gijon

Found out shipping shoes would take 5 days, changed our plans again. Made decision to take bus to Gijon to buy shoes. 

Today was rough day for me.  Taking bus was not in my plans.  But, buying new pair was the solution at this point.  This takes 90 miles off the trip, I was very disappointed.  Feeling defeated.  Amazing how hard I was taking it. 

After getting schedule we headed for bus stop.  I decided to ship some things home.   Started going through backpack and separating keep things and ship things.  Paulette did the same. 20 minutes later we had 10 pounds of stuff to ship. 

I walked to post office across street.  I was supplied with box and tape.  49€ later, it was on its way to Seattle.  Lighter is better.  We will see how it helps my feet.

We waited 4 hours for bus, arrived in San Vicente and transferred to another bus to take us on to Gijon.  Arrived in Gijon at 4pm.

Big city, yes.  Very compact,  people live in apartments not homes.  Families congregate in squares and parks with children.

We decided to walk to Youth Hostel and shop for shoes along way.  Found one store with possibility, but it was closed.   Youth hostel was 3km from center if town,  really far when tired. Arrived at Hostel, got checked in and found out about store for shoes and lots other equipment.

Got cab to store, bought shoes, inserts, and few things for Paulette.   Got cab back to hostel.  Went out to dinner. Big soccer game on, so bars were full of people watching game.

Went back to hostel, then to bed.   My feet were killing me.

7.11 miles.

Day Nine Done!

Santander to Santillana

Horrible night sleep the night before, my heels were killing me. Finally got to sleep about 130am after taking ibuprofen.

Awake at 6am, lights turned on at 7, started packing.  We decided to take bus to Barreda, it would cut 12 miles off our day and we really needed it.  Bottoms of my feet hurt.

We walked from Barreda to Santillana del Mar.  It started to rain about 1 mile from town. This wonderful little village was started in 850AD.  Very awesome little village.  We had lunch and headed out to find Albergue.

We found a wonderful albergue,  Solar de Hidalgos. A palace in its prime and so very cool.  Our room was on top floor, considered the attic.  It was wonderful place.

We took showers and naps. Went into town and shopped.  A tourist town, bus loads of people come every day.

Got more bandaids for my toe, got some wonderful rum raisin ice cream.  Then went back to room to rest.  Went out for dinner later, had pretty good meal with wine.

Went back to room and to bed.

We did 6.18 miles, seemed like more.

Day Seven Done!

Guemes Albergue to Santander

Our wonderful stay at Guemes Albergue had to end, but the warmth is still in my heart.

We were out the door by 830.  Up the road were fields and homes on our way to Somo to catch a ferry to Santander.

Walking is slow, pain keeping both of us from getting anywhere fast.

Lots of corn in this part of Spain. We hit the trail that follows ocean.  Very long but very beautiful.  We got to what we thought was Somo, got down to beach to get directions. The woman we talked to on beach was originally from Barcelona but lives in Virginia now. What were the chances with the hundreds of people to ask. We had to ask lifeguard, we then had to walk the length of beach, it looked so far.

Had lunch and then walked to wait for ferry.

Ferry arrived at 2, 20 minutes to cross to Santander. Found our way up the hill, some fellow pilgrims waiting for albergue to open. We placed our packs in row to wait.

I went looking for shoe repair shop to have my fanny pack repaired. Got recommendation,  would have to go at 5.

We were first in albergue, got our stuff for showers and hit shower. Only one bathroom was working, we lucked out getting into shower first.

Albergue was very crowded.  Packed in like sardines.  Not impressed, but a place to sleep.  10€ per person, too much considering.

We gathered our dirty clothes, washing machine provided and we wash when we can.  Had some hot tea while waiting on clothes.

Met man from Canary island, he was 60+ years and this was his 5th Camino. Many of the pilgrims are 50+ years old
 
We did 11.51 miles today.

Day Six Done!

Laredo to Guemes Albergue

Up at 630, I prepacked the night before, hoping to get out early.  Breakfast was at 715.  Coffee, fruit, and pound cake plus wonderful company.

Ate, finished packing and headed out, leaving at 830.

We walked along beach, longest beach in Spain to the ferry that would be taking us to Santona.  Five minute ride across, they could easily have bridge....but they don't.

Walked through town to another beach, Playa de Berria. A few surfing schools along beach, we walked to beach to watch for while. Walked on beach to 'the hill ', as it is described in book, much steeper and rocky than 'hill' in my mind.  But, we made it up and over.

Playa de Noja beach, clothing optional. Paulette and I decided we'd spare them having to see such beautiful American specimens, we wouldn't have wanted any troubles.  Ha!

Near end of beach we stopped for lunch, chicken, salad, grilled bread with carmelized onion, and coke with lemon.  Very relaxing.

We decided to get a little ahead by taking a bus to Guemes Albergue.   We'd walked 10 miles by then and we were tired.

Located the bus stop with help from locals. Found the bus didn't go Guemes, so we took it to San Miguel de Meruelo. From there we took alternate route than book recommended, which was about half the distance.

We walked about 2 miles when Paulette decided to stick her thumb out and see if we could get a ride. Viola, a wonderful Spaniard picked us up and 15 - 20 minutes later, we had arrived. 

Language has been barrier for few days, but we manage to communicate and get answers and things work out.

Guemes Albergue - this place is amazing. A home that was transformed into a place for peregrinos to gather after a long day of travel. It houses up to 65 peregrinos at one time. It is owned by priest and it is his childhood home.  If you'd really like to know more, please research on Internet.  He has done wonderful things in his life and uses the money he brings in to help continue that work. A wonderful experience for me that I will remember forever.

There were about 45 staying here.  We were fed a complete dinner with wine.  We were presented the history of priest and the work they do.  There were at least 8 countries represented last night.  They keep data on numbers of peregrinos coming through. In 2014, 290 from USA stayed here, USA was 5th on list, which was surprising to me.

I went to bed last night with warmth in heart.  What an incredible day.

Day Five Done!

Liendo to Laredo

Up at 7am, out by 830 to eat and get coffee. The issue this morning,  do we walk to Laredo or take bus.  My toe was causing problems. 

Before we leave albergue, I decided to trim my toenail back.  When I did, it punctured the membrane that was retaining fluid, which was causing the swelling. It started draining immediately and what a difference that made. 

I wrapped toe in bandaid, put on one sock instead of two and decided we would walk.

Scenery was wonderful,  lots of up and down again today. By time we arrived in Laredo, my toe was killing me.

Arrived in Laredo at about 1045.  It was about 4.5 miles.  I found hospital so I could see doctor about my toe.

Language barrier is huge.  I don't understand enough Spanish to help and not many in Spain speak English. Finally determined I had to go to bank to make payment so I could be seen.  The hospital did not and would not take payment.  My insurance was not valid here.  Walked to bank,  made payment, walked back to hospital and waited another hour to be seen by doctor.

Got prescription from doctor.  He did nothing for my toe.  No bandage, bandaid, or even clean it.  Seriously, he did nothing.  Getting the prescription cost me 79€ and then I had to buy the meds.

Went into town, bought meds, and other supplies then went to find dinner and hopefully wider shoes.

Meds are amoxicillin and painkiller with anti inflammatory. Took first dose and hoped for best.

Went shopping for shoes, found nothing. Only store that would have had something was closed until October because owner was on vacation.

We went to church for the service.  Priest did blessing of pilgrims  (peregrinos).  Since I am not religious, it was interesting to watch all the ceremony and ritual that is used in the Catholic religion.  But, I got an incredible warm feeling from priest during blessing.

Went to musical service put on by nuns, attended by peregrinos. We all told our story, why were doing Camino and little about our life.

Went to bed feeling good.  Toe was getting better.

We had actually walked 8+ miles, due to shopping, eating, and back to church.

Day Four Done!

Castro to Liendo

We were up at 6am, out by 730. Incredibly beautiful trail this morning. 

My right big toe continues  to cause problems.

We stopped in Islares, at 10 am, 5.79 miles.  Got coke with ice, not something I ever do, but boy did it go down nicely.  Took off socks and shies, made adjustments and it felt much better.  Had snack of dried fruit and nuts.

~10 miles to Liendo, our stop for the night.

Break at 12:14pm, Paulette is having knee issues, it is slow.

We left at 12:30, uphill for miles.

Tightened my shoes up, helps with my toe issue. But my feet are really squeezed.

We decided, due to Paulette's knee and my toe, to take shorter route.  It will take 3 -4 miles off our day into Liendo, but we really need the shorter day today.

We arrived in Liendo,  walked all the way through town.  Found that we had another 1.3km to get to the albergue.   I really didn't think I could walk another step,  but when you have no other choice...

We arrived in at albergue,  there was no one there.   A local called and appropruate person showed up in about 5 minutes.  We arrived ar albergue Liendo at 2:40, 14.75 miles.  Omg, hard day. My toe is screaming in pain.  It is red and angry.

We found bunk, I took shower, put load clothes in washer and laid down for nap.

It was 3:40 by time I laid down for nap.  Paulette wasn't able to sleep, so she pulled clothes out of washer  and laid them out to dry.

Woke at 5, we got dressed, went for dinner.

Kitchen closed from 530 until 730.  We got wine and snacks.   Lots kids coming in to ride bikes and socialize.

Will probably go to doctor tomorrow about toe.   It looks horrible and hurts like crazy.

Met a wonderful couple from Germany.   So fun to meet such neat people.

Day Three Done.

Pobena to Castro

Morning started at 7am.  Took cold shower, hot water never worked in apartment.  We were packed and out by 830 am. 

Nothing open in Pobena for coffee or breakfast, so we hit the trail.  The morning hike was beautiful with incredible views of the beach we'd walked through yesterday.

We ate protein bars at about 10, just outside of Onton about 4 miles into the trip, but still no coffee.

Lots of up and down today, very hard on my toes.  My right big toenail is damaged and lifting from the nail base.  It didn't seem to be problem yestetday, until we got to Pobena,  it is much worse today.

Had lunch in Miono, meat sandwich and water.  From Miono, we walked through long dark tunnel then on to beach. Walked long distance on beach boardwalk.  Lots of families at the beach.  Very sunny but not hot.

Upon arriving in Castro,  we walked up to the Parish Church of Santa Maria de la Asuncion, then on to the albergue.   Line outside when we arrived.  We weren't sure we'd get a spot, luckily they had tents out back with mattresses, away from crowd and noise.

The albergue system works well if you can arrive by 3, after that there is chance no space available.   Tonight we were lucky.

Took another cold shower,  but thankful to get one.  Washed put my clothes from today,  hung them to dry and took nap.

Waiting for Paulette to finish her shower, wash clothes, and then we are going for dinner.

Day Two Done!

Bilbao to Pobena

Wow, what a day.

We got up about 8, 2 hours later than we planned, but we were both really tired.  Felt we needed the sleep.

Got breakfast at hotel, 4 € each, a bargain.   Headed out at 930.

Used guidebook to get to edge of town and on to Pobena.  At about 1230 we stopped for break.   We'd completed 5.84 miles.  Had lemonade, an orange,  and nuts for break.  Loved seeing lots of kids with families, grandparents  at the park.   Bilbao, like many European cities was mostly apartments.  Small city parks pulled families together for socializing.

Afternoon we hit our turning point to cross waterway, Las Arenas,  mechanical bridge, first in the world,  that ferried across autos and people, hung from tall iron bridge. 

Trail from Las Arenas to Pobena  wasn't  marked well, we had a few issues staying on trail.  

Had a very personal experience with dirty old Spaniard, too personal and very weird.

Today, our first day on trail seemed very long, but very beautiful.  We walked into Pobena  at about 7pm.  17.7 miles for the day.  Very tired, feet hurting and ready for rest.

The albergue system on the trail is first come, first serve.  It was full at 3pm today, according to some peregrinos we talked to on beach.   September is normally a low traffic time of year.  Pobena albergue has 22 beds, we didn't have chance, so we got apartment at $70 for both of us.  Has washer, so we are taking advantage of that.

Ate dinner next door, hamburger, fries, wine, then Sangria.   24€ for 2 of us.

Amazingly enough, we were alone on the trail all day. No other walking peregrinos (pilgrims ) at all.  We were passed on the trail by a couple on bikes, which is an option, but not my preferred method.

Our evening destination was small village of Pobena,  wonderful family community.

Tomorrow is about 9 miles, after today, that is piece of cake.

Day One Done!

I've attempted to add photos, but it won't upload them.  I'll have load photos later.  Sorry.

Seattle to Bilbao

Seattle to Philadelphia was uneventful.  I slept some, but of course not comfortably. Flight from Philadelphia to Madrid was enjoyable; nice dinner, movies, and breakfast.  Madrid to Bilbao flight was late, but very brief.

Arrived in Bilbao today about 2 pm.  We were both exhausted. Got cab to hotel and we both crashed for 3+ hours.

We headed out to see Bilbao and shop for a few things.  Went to a mall, so busy with beautiful clothes and lots of people.  Had dinner at small pub, nothing special.

Tonight we are shuffling things going for our trek that starts tomorrow.   Tomorrow  we will do about 13 miles.

Really looking forward to tomorrow.

Departure day

Our adventure began at 4am, due to 8am flight.  Madison, Paulette's daughter, came with her mom and drove us to airport. 

Amazing how many people are on highway at 5am!

I'm anxious, excited, and maybe a little scared.  This is just what I need at this point in my life.

Here we go!

Final preparations

Finished washing all my clothes for trip and started packing.  I found some compression bags and feel like they will help keep me organized. 

Decided to take protein powder instead of bars.  I have to sew the sleep sheets I  bought for me and Paulette, buy batteries and then I'll be ready.

I weighed my pack today, weighed in at 16 lbs, a little heavier than I had planned, so I may be trimming a few things. Plus I still gave to add sheet and sandals.  It's already very full.

Travis, Erica, and Jackson came for the afternoon.  So fun to see the little guy growing and changing.  I am blessed with 3 wonderful sons, a beautiful daughter in law, cutest grandson on the planet and a super husband, couldn't ask for much more.

Working out phone issues

Paulette and are very good friends, as well as family.  Feel fortunate to have her in my life.  This trip will be epic.

Now have better phone and blogger app, really looking forward to documenting the trip.

10 days and counting......

Departure day, September 2nd, is approaching quickly and preparations are coming to an end.   I haven't walked enough, or trained enough... not sure how much would be have been enough.  With only a few things left to locate or purchase, I am getting excited.

Paulette

I expect to have about 10 or 12 lbs packed into this guy.  Traveling light since I will carry it 420 miles.

Temperatures are expected to be 50's to 70's with about 14 days of possible rain - based on historic weather patterns.  Perfect for walking, hiking, and exploring.

Spain... here we come.

The Beginning

I feel very fortunate that I've been able to travel over the last 20+ years and have had some great trips that have created wonderful memories.  September 2, 2015,  I will be heading out on an opportunity of a lifetime with my sister-in-law, Paulette from Goldendale, WA.

St. James Cathedral

This adventure, Camino Del Norte, has been over a year in planning.  We will start in Bilbao and walk to Santiago De Compostela.  A total of 420 miles.  It is an opportunity that I really didn't think I would get due to work and family responsibilities. But then, if you don't ask, you don't receive. So I asked and everyone said "Yes"!  

I am so thankful for the support of my wonderful husband, John.  He has been by my side now for 23 years and has been a great support all these years.  He'll be taking care of Jake, working hard, mowing the lawn, and cheering me on from home.

Camino Del Norte

I have the most incredible boss.  How many bosses say; "Sure, take month off, we'll be here waiting when you return."?  Well, mine did.  Thank you, Mark.  Then the super support of my co-workers, who will be handling my work for an entire month in addition to their own.  WOW!  Isn't that just incredible!!

My wonderful sister-in-law, Paulette, said "Let's do it." without a moments hesitation when I asked her and she will be a great travel companion.  She is along for the fun, adventure, and experience.

Hope you enjoy the photos and experiences we have and I appreciate you stopping by to check it out.